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FLORENCE Part Two |
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Sat, May 10 Saturday began at the Uffizi, and it was afterwards that Uli went home to rest and I went to the ground floor of Il Duomo. Later I got in a nap and we went to TratorriAnna for dinner, where for the second meal in Florence I had non-Italian food, in this case paella. It was fine, but I crave spicier food. I'm a little mad at myself because I was staring at a jar of spicy pepper on a shelf the whole time and didn't think to ask for it. I'm also a little mad that I didn't realize that the next table over asked us if we wanted to share their wine, realizing it only after they left, leaving a half-full chianti. We did try a few sips, however. But that night we both wanted to be sober. It turned out that the African music night that I learned of at the Cucina Africana was right across the street at a club called Universale. It was 11pm and it hadn't really started yet. I asked how long the club be going for and the doorman, dressed very dapper, said until three or 4. I fully intended to return but instead slept like a rock.
Sun, May 11 We paid up at the
YHF 2000 -- all 180 euros -- and checked into the Santa Monaca, a savings
of 13 euros a night. We then split up, with Uli taking the bus to the
hills for a walk, ending up all the way in Pistoia (or so he believed)
and me strolling through the Bobboli Gardens and the Pitti Palace. The
gardens were quite fine, as was the Palazzo, through I'm glad I didn't
have to pay.
After the Boboli
and the Pitti I got lost coming back. I was within 50 feet of the hostel
and ended up walkking another half hour before realizing my mistake.
Soon after I got in the rain started up. I had washed some clothes and
myself, lying down naked under the covers when the punishing thunder
began. Uli had come in to nap in his bunk as well. There was nothing
else one could do. Later that night I followed Uli, with the understanding that he had navigational control -- he was sick of me being the one in the lead. We sat in the Uffizi courtyard while he played his didge, tempting the carabinieri who are parked a mere 50 feet away, but they don't care. I called mom on the cell phone and left a message for Mother's Day. Uli called his parents as well -- his mom was to have an an operation the next day.
I was hoping to get away from all the city exhaust up here, but I'm afraid it's more visible than ever. This being our last day/morning in Florence, this was my last chance to get up here. I wish I had been up here during the incredibly violent electrical storm that passed through last night. Although the tallest building around wouldn't be the best place to be, I'm sure the visuals and audio assault would have been awesome. It was loud enough down below where I was pretending to nap. The 463 steps up were only rough right before the first landing, inside the frescoed dome. The never-ending spiral steps got me pretty dizzy, and I was fully expecting to see someone's breakfast in a splatter on the steps before me. I'm happy to have kept mine in. I'm glad I came up here, but the smog is just awful. Funny, a guy who's from L.A. saying that. But I've really been having problems breathing: on the streets surrounded by mopeds, on the buses from the diesel engines, and in the cafes with people's cigarettes. I can't wait to get out of the city and into the country!
Mon, May 12 12:10pm, Waiting for Uli at Ostello Santa Monaca Uli's late getting back. We were to meet at noon in order to rent the car. The rental place closes for siesta at 1pm and they said we should be there bu 12:45pm. Further complicating matters, the Ostello closes at 1, so if we want our bags during that time we either have to bring them with us across the bridge or wait to get them. I'm just going to
have to wait for him. Mon, May 12 2:30pm We've achieved rental car, and already then tensiion of driving and navigating in a foreign land is getting to us. We've spent the last half hour trying to find a police station where, legend says, Uli's last chance at wallet redemption lies. I'm not holding my breath. What I will be trying to hold is my temper. I called Uli a fucker and slammed my hand on the dash after he ignored my plea for him to make a right out of a traffic circle. We ended up going around the circle three times because the way we wanted to go was a one-way -- very frustrating. But now the car is parked and I'm sitting under pine trees, listening to birds. Sure, the sound of mopeds is still a constant. But I hope to be very far away from them very soon. Were it not for the dirty, smelly streets and the dirty, smelly air, I would like Florence a lot more. Now I just can't wait to leave.
email:
ryan[at]monkeyduck[dot]com
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FLORENCE Restaurants: TratorriaAnna Inexpensive, caters to locals
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